DAY 8: The Pantheon 2

09.07.2014

My first stop today was again the Pantheon. This time I came from the front with a big ice cream. I sat on the side of the entrance in a playful area with big pieces of marble placed randomly, suggesting that people could sit on them and finish their ice creams before entering the holy interior. As I made myself comfortable some children as well started running around and climbing the stones. An angry guard then came along and shouted at all of us. He said something about “gelato” (ice cream) and “national treasure” and me being a coward. I understand I was sitting in an area of immense archaeological or national importance and I should move from there. Only then I spotted signs prohibiting access to the narrow site.

DAY 7: The Pantheon 1

08.07.2014

I approached the Pantheon from the back. It felt like approaching a well-known person, a bit awkward and uncomfortable. I had to remain rational. The cinematic experience, which excluded a front view of the monumental entrance, initially broke all the visions of the space that I had somewhere in my conscious. I even lost the sense that the Pantheon is round. Approached from the back, the first thing one sees is a square extension and a deep excavated area around the building. The traces of marble cladding and the former exterior glory are visible only around the entrance.

DAY 6: Respect

07.07.2014

Largo Santa Sussana Elevation

 The city both benefits and suffers from millions of people pouring in on annual basis for no other reason than walking around, eating ice cream and taking most tasteless photographs (hugging statues and columns, posing in front of frescos and fountains). For every urban and social phenomenon discovered in Rome, church inevitably plays a role as a stake holder. Seen as a trend-setter for what we consider morality and promoting the only set of values that will help humanity survive, the church in Rome is in a funny position, squeezed between international, globalized, modern society and itself.

AGENDA 1: Historical Informalities

Historical Informa

The relationship between domestic and public across European cities has been a changing aspect of urban culture and mentality. Aldo van Eyck, while involved in CIAM and Team 10 describes London as a wonderful place where children play on the streets and domestic occupations spreads outside the walls of the terraced and mews houses with flowers, chairs and tables taking over portions of public space. 

DAY 5: The Walls

05.07.2014

Traffic around the Wall. Aurelian Walls, 282AD

The walls are a rather romantic reminder of the historical boundaries of the city of Rome. Over the years they have been not only superseded but embraced as an unquestionable element of urban fabric.

DAY 4: The Views

04.07.2014

The View from the Pincian Hill. Photo:MM

The View of the Capitoline Hill. Photo:MM

The most exciting views of Rome which capture its aggregated nature are either the ones from the hills or the ones looking into the hills.

DAY 3: The Vatican

03.07.2014

Inside the Vatican. Photo:MM

On my way to the Vatican today, I was aiming to document another “black hole” of the city of Rome, an alienating site which takes away urban life and growth. Approaching the St. Peter’s Square along the remains of the Leonine Wall and occasionally stepping into the Borgo district, I was convinced the exact opposite.

DAY 2: De-Fence

02.07.2014

Forum of Trajan. 106-112 AD. 

Distance and Depth. Photo:MM

After two days on the streets of Rome I am beginning to step out of a Woody Allen movie and try to look for intriguing moments of the city beyond tourists and their well-established routes. Two things grabbed my attention as I was avoiding site entrances and looking over the edges of archaeological sites...

DAY 1: We, the Americans...

01.07.2014

American in Rome.
Ara Pacis Museum by Richard Meier. Photo:MM

Today is my first day in Rome. My initial aim is to see what the Romans do in their everyday life so I don’t do anything they would find strange. First impressions are good, Rome is a good cultural fusion mainly between Romans and Americans. At first sight, they don’t do anything unusual for someone who came from London, apart from the cycling habits - they speak on a mobile phone while cycling and they don’t seem to bother with safety equipment such as helmets and lycra outfits. My London influenced preconception of Romans was that they usually gather in large groups in front of PRIMARK or the British Museum. They are in fact almost invisible in their own city.